From River to Ruin: Colonisation and Bark Canoes in Gippsland

On the banks of the Mitchell River or by the edge of Lake Wellington, there are still trees that carry the long vertical scars of bark removed for canoe-making. Yet the canoes themselves — once so common on these waters — are largely gone. Their absence speaks volumes.

With the arrival of British colonisation in the early 19th century, Aboriginal life in Gippsland and across Australia was profoundly disrupted. Canoes, as tools and symbols of mobility, were among the many cultural practices impacted. In this fourth article of our series, we explore how colonisation affected Aboriginal watercraft traditions — from forced displacement and mission life to environmental destruction and loss of intergenerational knowledge. Yet, despite this, canoe culture has not disappeared. Traces remain, and in some places, revivals are underway.

Before Contact: A Maritime Lifeway

Prior to European arrival, Aboriginal peoples across Australia used a wide range of watercraft — bark canoes in the south and east, dugouts in the north, reed rafts in arid zones, and outriggers in the Torres Strait. In Gippsland, the GunaiKurnai used bark canoes to move between lakes, fish in rivers, and transport families during seasonal movement.

This maritime culture was embedded in every aspect of life: economy, travel, ceremony, and story. Knowledge of canoe construction and use was passed from generation to generation, often linked with lore and language.

The Disruption Begins

The early years of colonisation in Gippsland were marked by violence, land seizure, and forced relocation. For the GunaiKurnai, the arrival of settlers in the 1840s and ’50s led to dispossession of Country, disruption of mobility, and restrictions on access to traditional waterways.

Three major forces eroded canoe culture:

  1. Environmental destruction
    Logging operations removed many of the old-growth trees needed for canoe bark. Wetlands were drained for grazing, and rivers were diverted or polluted by mining and farming activity.
  2. Displacement and missions
    People were moved off Country and placed on missions like Lake Tyers or Ramahyuck. Access to traditional canoe sites was denied, and cultural practices were often actively discouraged or forbidden.
  3. Tool shift and cultural suppression
    With the introduction of metal tools, new fishing gear, and European boats, traditional canoes were increasingly replaced — not always by choice. Aboriginal people were pressured to abandon “native” technologies in favour of settler norms.

By the late 19th century, canoe-making in many parts of Victoria had ceased. Only remnants survived — in stories, in trees, and in rare colonial records.

Silencing the River

Mission policies, particularly from the 1860s onwards, focused on assimilation. At Lake Tyers, GunaiKurnai families were relocated and made to follow strict daily routines. The use of language and traditional crafts — including canoe construction — was often restricted.

Yet even under these conditions, knowledge was sometimes passed quietly. Children were taught to fish. Scarred trees were remembered. Women continued to weave baskets and set traps, and some Elders continued to speak of the old canoe routes.

Survival in Fragments

While few physical canoes remain from the 20th century, cultural records have helped preserve fragments of memory:

  • D.E. Edwards (1972) recorded interviews with Elders from Victoria and NSW, who described how canoes were built and used.
  • Scarred trees in Gippsland, especially along the Mitchell, Tambo, and Snowy Rivers, remain visible and protected under heritage laws.
  • Early photographs, such as those by Nicholas Caire (c.1886), show bark canoes still in use in eastern Victoria.

These fragments became the foundation for cultural revival work in the 21st century.

Cultural Revival

In 2011, the making of Boorun’s Canoe by Elder Albert Mullett and artist Steaphan Paton marked a major turning point in Gippsland’s cultural history. Using traditional techniques and materials, the canoe was launched on Lake Tyers in front of community and Elders.

It was the first traditional bark canoe made in the region in over a century.

The project was not just about a canoe — it was about restoring connection. Connection to Country, to culture, and to identity.

“We were taken off the land and away from our waters. But we haven’t forgotten who we are. This canoe helps bring that back.”
Albert Mullett, 2011

Today, organisations like GLaWAC support this work through ranger programs, cultural education, and heritage protection.

The Role of Museums

Museums have long held Aboriginal objects, often disconnected from their communities. But that is changing. Institutions like Museums Victoria have partnered with GunaiKurnai representatives to co-curate exhibitions, return stories to Country, and use items like Boorun’s Canoe to educate.

At Port Albert Maritime Museum, we recognise the importance of telling not just the technical story of canoes, but the social, historical, and political context of their disruption — and return.

What the Trees Still Say

Scarred canoe trees are not silent. Each one marks a place where knowledge was acted upon, where a community shaped the land to meet its needs. These trees — many near Port Albert and across Gippsland — stand as quiet witnesses to change and continuity.

They remind us that Aboriginal maritime culture was never lost — only interrupted.

Next in the Series: Reviving the Craft: How Canoe-Making Returned to GunaiKurnai Country

TL;DR

Built in 1864, the former Port Albert Post and Telegraph Office is Gippsland’s oldest surviving post office and a rare example of early government architecture in a small maritime town. The brick and bluestone building served Port Albert for more than a century, linking the district to Melbourne by mail and telegraph. Recognised by the National Trust and listed on the Victorian Heritage Register, it remains one of the few intact post offices of its era in Victoria. Now a carefully restored private home, it stands as a tangible reminder of how communication and community helped shape Port Albert’s identity.

On Wharf Street, overlooking the wharf, stands one of Port Albert’s most recognisable landmarks – the former Post and Telegraph Office. Built in 1864, it served the community for more than a century and is recognised as the oldest surviving post office in Gippsland and among the earliest still standing in Victoria.

Its simple, symmetrical form and arched windows give it quiet authority. In a town once built mostly of timber and corrugated iron, this solid brick and bluestone building represented permanence – a statement that Port Albert had become a place of consequence.

Preserving a Local Landmark

The post office closed in 1972 and was later sold by Australia Post. Unlike many rural post offices that were demolished or heavily altered, Port Albert’s survived largely intact. Its early recognition by the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) in 1970, followed by inclusion on the Victorian Heritage Register (Hermes No. 70028), helped secure its protection.

old Port Albert Post OfficeToday it remains a private residence, carefully restored and adapted for modern use. More recent owners have retained its defining features – high ceilings, arched windows, Baltic pine floors, and solid brickwork – while adding an accommodation wing at the rear. The building sits within a 1,597 square-metre block overlooking the historic Government Wharf, its courtyard shaded by mature trees.

This sensitive reuse reflects the principles of the Burra Charter, which emphasises ongoing use as the best form of conservation. By keeping the building lived in, Port Albert has preserved not only its structure but also its connection to the community.

A Port Built on Communication

When the post office was constructed in 1864, Port Albert was Gippsland’s main seaport. Everything – settlers, livestock, goods, and mail – arrived by sea. Before the railway reached inland towns, ships brought the world to this remote edge of the colony.

Postal services had operated here since the 1840s, first from makeshift premises, then from a small timber office. The new brick building, combining postal and telegraph functions, signalled a shift from provisional settlement to permanence. It also coincided with the arrival of the telegraph line, which reached Port Albert that same year, linking the town to Melbourne in hours rather than days.

For local residents, the building represented progress. It was where shipping news arrived, government payments were made, and families collected letters from the other side of the world. The rhythm of life often turned on its deliveries – a reminder that communication, as much as trade, sustained the district.

Design and Craftsmanship

Port Albert Post OfficeThe Port Albert post office was built in a conservative Italianate style, a restrained interpretation of the architecture popular in Melbourne during the 1860s. Its symmetrical façade, bracketed eaves, and tall arched windows gave the small coastal town a touch of metropolitan civility.

Constructed from locally fired brick with bluestone detailing, the building contrasted sharply with the surrounding weatherboard cottages. Inside, the plan followed a typical layout of the period: a public office at the front, living quarters at the rear, and a telegraph room attached. No record survives of its architect, though its proportions and detailing suggest it was designed through the Public Works Department – one of a series of standardised yet regionally adapted buildings produced for frontier settlements.

The use of durable materials reflected both confidence and necessity. The coastal environment demanded strength, and the government wanted longevity for what it saw as essential infrastructure. A building of this quality in a town of fewer than 500 people made a clear statement about Port Albert’s standing in the colony.

The Telegraph Era

The opening of the telegraph service transformed communication across Gippsland. Operators at Port Albert tapped messages to and from Sale, Alberton, and Melbourne, reporting shipping movements, weather, and emergencies. Telegrams Australia records it among the earliest telegraph offices in the region.

The system turned the post office into a communications hub – a single-room link between a remote district and the capital. Within months of its opening, it was handling everything from maritime news to government dispatches. The speed of information changed how the community functioned; decisions that once took weeks could now be made in hours.

Decline and Endurance

Port Albert Post OfficePort Albert’s prosperity peaked in the 1860s. As railways reached inland towns, trade routes shifted, and larger ships bypassed the shallow inlet. The port declined, but the post office endured.

For more than a hundred years, residents came here for their letters, pensions, and newspapers. By the mid-20th century, the building remained largely unaltered – a functional public office with a distinctive sense of place. Photographs from 1949 show the same brick façade, the same view across the harbour, and the same quiet reliability it offered from the beginning.

When it finally closed in 1972, the closure marked the end of an era rather than a loss. The building passed into private hands but continued to serve the town in a different way – as a reminder of how central communication once was to daily life.

Part of a Larger Story

The former post office is one of several surviving nineteenth-century civic and government-era buildings in the Wharf Street precinct, standing alongside the former Bank of Victoria (now the Maritime Museum), the former Customs House site, and the historic Government Wharf with its early sheds and maritime structures.

Within a state context, only a handful of comparable post offices from the 1860s survive largely intact – among them those at Camperdown (1863), Heathcote (1861), and Port Fairy (1868). Port Albert’s building therefore represents one of the earliest regional examples still in use, and the only one of its age remaining in Gippsland.

Its continued presence demonstrates how architectural conservation often relies on community pride. Local ownership, early recognition, and practical reuse have protected the building more effectively than legislation alone.

2024 former Port Albert Post OfficeAn Enduring Connection

Viewed from the harbour road, the former post office looks much as it did 160 years ago. The brickwork has weathered, but the proportions remain the same. It stands as both a home and a local landmark – not a museum piece, but a working part of the town’s fabric.

The building’s survival mirrors Port Albert’s own story: shaped by the tides of commerce and change, yet sustained by care and continuity. It reminds us that heritage is not only about preserving the past, but about maintaining the structures that continue to tell it.

In Port Albert, the old post office does just that – a quiet witness to how this coastal town once reached out to the world, and how it still keeps that connection alive.

 

References

  • Victorian Heritage Database, Hermes No. 70028, Former Port Albert Post Office
  • National Trust of Australia (Victoria), File FN 2732 (1970)
  • Graeme Butler, Port Albert Conservation Study (1982)
  • Guidelines for the Assessment of Heritage Planning Applications: Port Albert & District (Wellington Shire, 2002)
  • Telegrams Australia, Telegraph Offices: Gippsland South
  • Kenneth Cox, Land of the Pelican: The Story of Yarram and District (1982)